Logistics - Kyrgyz Alpine Club

Food, Gas & Petrol, Equipment

mr_ggg — Fri, 16 Jul 2021 08:09:03 +0000

There are no problems with food supply for the mountaineering expeditions in Kyrgyzstan. Basically any standard set of ingredients can be easily obtained in the local stores and markets of the country. But there are several things to consider while buying. These will provide you with required food of good quality. All necessary ingredients can be bought in Bishkek which is usually a starting point for most expeditions. It’s also Bishkek, as a rule, where you find the best choice, variety and quality. Therefore it’s better to stock main ingredients in Bishkek yet something is better to buy on the way to the mountains. Special food for climbers, concentrates, sublimate and long-term food is better tobuy in Bishkek. If travel to the expedition destination takes several days, as for example to the Western Kokshal-Too region, then some things especially perishables are worth to buy in towns or villages on the way. First of all, it applies to bread, fruit, vegetables and meat. Most expeditions in Kyrgyzstan are held in the areas of big towns of Karakol, Naryn and Osh. Karakol is good place to purchase bread, meat and vegetables, however, fruit and tomatoes are better on the way to Karakol in Chui valley. It’s convenient to stock with bread and meat in Naryn but the rest is better in Chui valley and Bishkek. Osh offers good selection of fruit, vegetables, meat and bread even fruit and vegetables are cheaper and of better quality than in the north.

Gas and petrol are better to buy in Bishkek. Gas canisters for stoves (240 g and 480 g) are quite rare commodity in the equipment stores. Usually this item has to be ordered in advance from the tour operator. Some companies have systems to refill cylinders. One option is to refill used cylinders which will be considerably cheaper than buying new ones. Refilled cylinders are good to use at the altitude below 6 000 m – proved with personal experience. Good quality petrol for primus stoves is available only in Bishkek. Also it can be ordered in advance from the tour operator.

Mountaineers usually bring their own personal equipment however occasionally some problems occur, such as lost baggage or some items worn out during expedition. There are several outdoor stores in Bishkek where everything necessary can be purchased. The list of the stores is attached. There are no such facilities in other towns of Kyrgyzstan. Cookwares and cooking supplies can also be bought in hunting or sportswear stores but the assortment is usually not very big and often can happen that there is no necessary item. If any special equipment needs to be purchased it’s recommended to order it in advance from the store or through the tour operator. In addition, some tour operators can lend equipment such as: tents (high-altitude, base camp, kitchen and dining tents), cooking ware and utensils, satellite phones, USB-stations and etc.

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Expedition service team

mr_ggg — Fri, 16 Jul 2021 08:01:33 +0000

Mountain guides

When hiring mountain guide in Kyrgyzstan one should be very careful not to be guided by an unqualified person. Nowadays everyone in Kyrgyzstan can call himself a guide and offer guiding service. There are no law regulations to control work of a mountain guide. How to find information about mountain guides? First of all, the main source is the Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association (KMGA). This organization also trains and certifies mountain guides. The list of certified mountain guides with contacts is attached.

Also, this information can be found on the Association web site mentioned in attachment as well. The Association trains mountain guides in accordance with UIAGM-IFMGA standard though it’s not the member yet (KMGA has been a probationary member of UIAGM-IFMGA since 2010) and also Association developed its own standards.

Only trainers who hold UIAGM-IFMGA carnet are training guides according to the proper standard. And the local guides who took UIAGM-IFMGA standard training are qualified to train in accordance with Association standard. The latter standard is a bit lower than UIAGM-IFMGA but it’s the most qualified training available in Kyrgyzstan. If the guide you are planning to work with does not hold KMGA certificate it is worth to request for the references from other clients or from KMGA first.

Liaison officers, expedition and base camp managers

It’s better to prepare expedition with the specialized tour operators as they have necessary experience, take responsibility and value their good name. Usually expedition manager is very important stuff member for solving different organizational issues during expedition. As a rule the issues include supplying, cooperation with authorities and military (at the border posts), providing communication, guarding campsite and stuff management.

Often a manager position is combined with other stuff – mountain guide, driver, porter or cook. If there is a local mountain guide in expedition then frequently he performs the duties of the manager. However if there is no guide then the most experienced stuff member can manage the expedition.

Cooks

Not every good chef can cook in field / mountain conditions. Special experience is required. It’s more reliable to hire cook for expedition through the specialized tour operator.

Porters

Porters can be hired only in Bishkek or Karakol. Also during the season number of porters is based in the area of Lenin peak. If you are going to any region other than Lenin peak you have to transport porters from Bishkek or Karakol. You can hire porters only through specialized tour operators or through the Karakol Association of porters. In addition, hiring directly at Lenin peak base camp can be more expensive than doing such through the agency. The same is with horses for transporting loads from BC to ABC and return. As learned from previous experience it’s frequently more reliable and cheaper to hire porters and horses through the agency.

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Transportation and vehicles

mr_ggg — Fri, 16 Jul 2021 07:46:25 +0000

There are several ways how to get to Kyrgyzstan: by air, by railroad or by car. To get around inside the country is more convenient by car and sometime by air. Most of the mountaineering regions can be accessed only by all-wheel off-road vehicles. Helicopter might be the only option to access some regions of the Central Tien-Shan and Djangart. Walking time to those regions is about 4-7 days. There are several considerations when choosing vehicle, not only roominess but first of all cross-country ability. For instance, sometimes river crossing ability becomes of the main importance. The other vital factor is driver’s experience in the mountains.

For example, there are many river marshes and hillside bogs – “saz” in Kyrgyz language. To avoid these traps driver needs an experience but not less important is an experience how to get out of the swamps. It’s very important for the vehicle to be equipped with necessary implements for pulling out of marsh. There is not a big amount of off-road cross-country vehicles specially equipped for expeditions in Kyrgyzstan.

This type of transportation and experienced drivers are available only at few tour operators. It pays to make an advance booking of the transport.

For expeditions Kyrgyz Alpine Club can provide full-wheel drive vehicle: All-wheel drive truck-buses:

KAMAZ 43101

Wheel arrangement: 6×6
Capacity: max 24 persons
Carrying capacity: 6000kg

URAL 375

Wheel arrangement: 6×6
Capacity: max 18 persons
Carrying capacity: 4500kg

GAZ-66

Wheel arrangement: 4×4
Capacity: max 16 persons
Carrying capacity: 2000kg

Minibus UAZ-452

Wheel arrangement: 4×4
Capacity: max 7 persons
Carrying capacity: 1000kg

Minibus Mercedes Sprinter

Year of production: 1996
Capacity: max 11 persons
Conditioner

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